This easy crochet lamb pattern is a perfect crochet pattern for beginners. It works up super fast and the finished piece is an absolutely adorable crochet lamb toy!
If you love crocheting cute and cuddly stuffed animals, you’re in for a treat! This free crochet pattern is for a charming stuffed lamb that’s sure to steal your heart.
This little crochet lamb will make the perfect gift for a special child in your life, or a sweet addition to your own collection.
mc– magic circle sc– single crochet inc– increase (2 sc into the same stitch) dec– decrease (sc 2 together)
Gauge
Gauge is not important for this pattern.
Notes
You may want to go up or down a hook size for either of the suggested hook sizes, depending on your tension. The goal is to create a fabric tight enough that the stuffing doesn’t show through.
This pattern is worked in the round. Do not chain 1 or turn at the end of each row.
Finished Measurements
Approximately 11” from head to toe
Crochet Lamb Toy Pattern
Head
Start with your 3.5 mm hook and worsted-weight yarn.
Round 1- in a mc, sc 6 (6)
Round 2- inc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3- sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 4- (sc 1, inc) repeat around (18)
Round 5- sc in each stitch around (18)
*Note- If you have a very tight tension, you may want to crochet loosely in the next round so that the 6mm hook will fit into the stitches more easily.
Round 6- (sc 2, inc) repeat around (24)
Fasten off. Then attach your super bulky yarn and switch to your 6mm hook.
Round 7-10 (4 rounds)- sc in each stitch around (24)
Round 11- (sc 2, dec) repeat around (18)
Round 12- (sc 1, dec) repeat around (12)
Stuff head firmly with poly fill.
Round 13- dec around (6)
Fasten off. Use the darning needle to sew the hole closed and pull the yarn back up into the head to hide the tail.
Body
Working with super bulky yarn and a 6mm hook:
Round 1- in a mc, sc 8 (8)
Round 2- inc in each stitch around (16)
Round 3- (sc 1, inc) repeat around (24)
Rounds 4-5- sc in each stitch around (24)
Round 6- (sc 4, dec) repeat around (20)
Round 7- (sc 3, dec) repeat around (16)
Round 8- sc around (16)
Round 9- (sc 2,dec) repeat around (12)
Round 10- (sc 1, dec) repeat around (8)
Round 11- sc around (8)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body.
Ears (Make 2)
Working with worsted weight and 3.5mm hook:
Round 1- in a mc, sc 6 (6)
Round 2- inc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3- (sc 1, inc) repeat around (18) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Arms (Make 2)
Working with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook:
Round 1- in a mc, sc 6 (6)
Rounds 2-12 (11 rounds)- sc around (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Do not stuff the arms.
Legs (Make 2)
Working with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook:
Round 1- in a mc, sc 6 (6)
Round 2- (sc 2, inc) repeat (8)
Rounds 3-14 (12 rounds)- sc around (8)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stuff only the bottom half of each leg.
Crochet Lamb Toy Assembly
1- Use the long tail left on the body to sew the head onto the body.
2- Fold the ears in half and sew them onto round 10 of the head, about 8 stitches apart.
3- Flatten the top of each arm and sew them to the sides of the body, on round 10.
4- Flatten the top of each leg and sew them to the bottom of the body, positioning them between the top of round 1 and the bottom of round 3.
Embroidering the face
Nose: Using your darning needle and pink yarn, make a “v” shape for the nose in the middle of the face, with the point of the v in the magic circle.
Eyes: Using black thread, embroider 2 eyes by making about 3 passes over the same stitch. The eyes should be between rounds 4 and 5 of the head, 5 or 6 stitches apart.
You are all done! We hope you enjoyed this crochet lamb toy pattern! We would love to see your creations!! Tag us on Instagram @AcraftyConcept and @augustrainbowcrochet
Learn how to crochet this beginner-friendly amigurumi flamingo pool floaty and make this season’s hottest accessory for your crochet amigurumi toys.
Hello my fellow yarn enthusiasts and welcome sweet sweet summertime! I am loving finally getting some vitamin D!
If you love crochet flamingo patterns, get excited. I have a super fun summer crochet pattern for you today, introducing the Amigurumi Flamingo Floaty 🦩.
All your crochet amigurumi toys and dolls need one of these bad boys to help them fully enjoy summertime.
They would make a great accessory to sell in your amigurumi Etsy shops and a really fun photo prop for you to use on social media!
Bonus! If you switch up the colors a little bit from pink to white, you can follow this same pattern and get an amigurumi swan floaty! 🦢
This post may contain affiliate links meaning I may receive a small commission from purchases made, at no extra cost to you.
*I have linked most of the supplies I used in the materials section above.
We are using worsted weight yarn for this pattern but you could easily change up the yarn weight and crochet hook size to change the finished size of your flamingo pool floaty.
Don’t forget your freebie! Sign up to my email list and you’ll receive the 2023 Content Calendar for crocheters absolutely free, and start receiving other handy freebies from me every week!
STITCH KEY (US TERMS) ABBREVIATIONS
CH- Chain SC- Single Crochet INC- Increase (in this case- 2 SC in the same stitch) DEC- Decrease, in this case, invisible decrease (explained below) SL ST- Slip Stitch * To be repeated
SPECIAL STITCHES
Magic Circle –We will be using the Magic Circle (or magic ring) method for this crochet bunny pattern. If you are unfamiliar with this technique I will link a good YouTube video for you here.
Invisible Decrease – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on hook.
Continuous Rounds – This pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining. After you finish the stitches of one round, start right on the next without joining between. I find it handy to use a stitch marker (or a piece of yarn) to mark the start of each round so you know when each round starts/ends.
Color Changes – change colors at the end of the round. Complete last single crochet of the round until the last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and pull through last step of the single crochet. So your single crochet will go like this: insert hook into last stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over with new color, pull through both loops on hook.
Join As You Go (JAYG) – Joining method. Insert your hook into the first stitch of row 1 and place a SC. Remove your hook from your working yarn. Insert your hook into the first stitch in row 2. Grab the working yarn and pull it through. Repeat in each stitch around pairing up the stitches in row 1 with the stitches in row 2.
Amigurumi Flamingo Pool Floaty
We’re going to start with the donut shape of our pool floaty.
Join the ends of your chain, being careful not to get it twisted, CH 1.
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds- see special stitches above for help.
Round 1: SC 48 in the back bump (48)
Tip: If you are not familiar with crocheting in the back bump you can use your preferred method, I just think the back bump gives you a cleaner edge that will be easier to work with later on.
Place a stitch marker in the 48th space so you will know where the last stitch in round 2 is.
Round 2: *INC, SC 5* Repeat around 8 times (56)
Round 3: *INC, SC 6* Repeat around 8 times (64)
Round 4: *INC, SC 7* Repeat around 8 times (72)
Round 5: *INC, SC 8* Repeat around 8 times (80)
Rounds 6-9: SC 80 (80)
Round 10: *DEC, SC 8* Repeat around 8 times (72)
Round 11: *DEC, SC 7* Repeat around 8 times (64)
Round 12: *DEC, SC 6* Repeat around 8 times (56)
Round 13: *DEC, SC 5* Repeat around 8 times (48)
Now we are going to join round 1 with round 13 to create our donut shape. It’s easiest if you stuff your donut shape with polyfill as you go.
I like using the join as you go method (explained below). If you are unfamiliar with this method or prefer to do a slip stitch to join that’s totally fine, the inside of your floaty will have a little seem though. With the JAYG method, it lays flatter.
Join Squish your floaty so round 1 meets round 13.
Insert your hook into the first stitch in round 1 and place a SC.
Pull up a loop and take your hook out of your working yarn.
Insert your hook into the first stitch in Round 13, grab your loop and pull through.
Insert your hook into the second stitch in round 1 and repeat the steps joining round 1 with round 13.
Stuff with polyfill as you go.
Tie off and sew in your tail after joining round 1 with round 13.
Flamingo Head
This part of the pattern is also made in the round.
Round 1: SC 6 into magic circle (6)
Round 2: INC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *INC, SC* around 6 times (18)
Round 4-7: SC 1 time in each stitch around (18)
Round 8: *DEC, SC* around 6 times (12)
Round 9: *INC, SC* around 6 times (18)
Add safety eyes now. Between rows 4-5 and with 3 stitches between them. Add a little stuffing to your head then finish up the neck portion.
Rounds 10-18: SC 1 time in each stitch around (18)
Tie off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Beak
Using your black yarn
Round 1: SC 5 into a magic circle (5)
Round 2: INC, SC 4 (6)
Round 3: SC 3, INC, SC 2 (7)
Round 4: INC, SC 6 (8)
Switch to white yarn in the 8th stitch of round 4.
Round 5: SC 4, INC, SC 3 (9)
Round 6: SC 9 (9)
Tie off leaving a tail for attaching the beak onto the flamingo head.
Put a tiny bit of stuffing in the beak then sew it onto the head using the whip stitch.
Tip: If you don’t have safety eyes you can use black puff paint to make your flamingo eyes, or stitch them on with some black yarn and a tapestry needle.
Stuff your head and neck.
Sew the neck onto the top of the pool floaty body using the whip stitch.
You’re all finished! Now admire your creation.
These little things are so cute and summery. They fit perfectly around Crafty Friends like the Mia Moo Moo, the Ava Bunny and the 90’s troll! Im sure they would fit lots of other amigurumi patterns too!
Another fun way you can use one of these is as a summery photo prop for your Instagram feed!
I hope you guys love this flamingo pattern. If you make yourself one and share a pic I’d love to see! Tag me @ACRAFTYCONCEPT on Instagram or Facebook. Don’t forget your freebie!
This free crochet bunny pattern is the perfect easy amigurumi crochet pattern for beginners. Each step is explained in detail and there’s a full video tutorial as well!
I am feeling all kinds of emotions right now while writing up this blog post. Today I am releasing the one that started it all – the Ava Bunny.
I created this little crochet bunny pattern about this time of year, 4 years ago! I wanted to make something special for my brand-new baby girl’s first Easter basket. Cue the waterworks.
I remember messaging Vincent of Knot.Bad for his opinion on the design becuase I knew he made a lot of amigurumi. This is what I sent him lol …
We went with number 6.
I quickly became obsessed with making Ava Bunnies (named after my daughter if you didn’t make that connection just yet) and since Easter was right around the corner I thought I could easily market them to my mama friends!
Fast forward to summer 2016 and that is when I took the Ava Bunny, and a few more stuffie designs and opened my Etsy shop!
Creating the Ava Bunny and FINALLY (after debating with myself for 4 years) opening an Etsy shop was a huge turning point for me and for A Crafty Concept, that is where everything started and I couldn’t be more grateful!
Disclaimer- I do plan on releasing other stuffy designs throughout the year as well. Currently, we have the Mia Moo Moo, Issac Lion and Doxie Chicken patterns live.
I hope you guys love this free crochet bunny pattern. It is a very very basic amigurumi design, perfect for beginners and great for selling in your shops since it doesn’t take very long (for an ami) to make.
I have learned A LOT over the past 4 years so the finished Ava Bunny design may look a tad different to the trained eye.
Here’s what you will need to make your own Ava Bunny and start preparing for Easter basket sales!
Amigurumi is not my specialty and I am much better at explaining things through video. You can watch the free crochet bunny pattern full video tutorial here.
I go over every step in this video so it’s a little over an hour long, but I time-stamped each section so you can easily skip to the part you need to watch.
VideoTime Stamps Legs: 2:40 Joining Legs: 10:55 Body Stripes: 18:15 Bunny Face 24:20 Body Decreases 35:25 Closing Head Hole: 46:07 Ears 47:53 Spacing Ears 58:30 Attaching Ears 1:00:00
This post may contain affiliate links meaning I may recieve a small commission from purchases made at no extra cost to you.
*I have linked most of the supplies I used in the materials section above.
STITCH KEY (US TERMS)
CH- Chain SC- Single Crochet INC- Increase (in this case- 2 SC in the same stitch) DEC- Decrease, in this case, invisible decrease (explained below) SLST- Slip Stitch * To be repeated
SPECIAL STITCHES
Magic Circle –We will be using the Magic Circle method for this free crochet bunny pattern. If you are unfamiliar with this technique be sure to check out the video that goes with this pattern.
Invisible Decrease – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on hook.
Continuous Rounds – This pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining. After you finish the stitches of one round, start right on the next without joining between. I find it handy to use a stitch marker (or a piece of yarn) to mark the start of each round so you know when each round starts/ends.
Color Changes – change colors at the end of the round. Complete last single crochet of the round until the last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and pull through last step of the single crochet. So your single crochet will go like this: insert hook into last stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over with new color, pull through both loops on hook.
If you do plan on selling these cuties in your shop (either online or at markets), and I hope you do, I would include a warning that it is made with small pieces, and children under 3 should be supervised when playing with them.
The safety eyes and safety noses are in there REALLY GOOD and they’re super hard to pull apart after you snap them shut, but it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Grab your first leg and place a SLST in the SLST from where you tied off in Round 13 of leg 1.
SC in the same space where you SLST to tie off Round 13 from leg 1.
So you are slip stitching into a slip stitch- then putting a single crochet into the same space where the original slip stitch was. If this is confusing please refer to the 22-minute mark in the video that goes with this pattern.
This is the best way I could get it where there wasn’t a hole between the two legs that would have to be stitched closed. If you prefer to stitch up a small hole that’s totally fine. The main thing is round 14 has 48 stitches total, 24sc for the first leg and 24sc for the second leg.
SC 23 more times around the leg. (48 stitches total in Round 14)
SLST into the same space as your 24th sc from Round 13 on leg 2. None of the slip stitches count as a stitch, they’re just creating the desired shape of our bunny.
Round 15-16: SC around (48)
Switch to your second color when finishing the last sc in Round 16. This is explained under “special stitches” above
Round 17: With your second yarn color, SC 48. Finish the 48th stitch by switching back to your main body color.
Using your main body color.
Round 18: SC 48. Finish the 48th stitch by switching back to your second color.
Using your second color.
Round 19: SC 48. Finish the 48th stitch by switching back to your main body color.
Using your main body color.
Round 20: SC 48. Finish the 48th stitch by switching back to your second color.
Using your second color.
Round 21: SC 48. Finish the 48th stitch by switching back to your main body color.
You will use your main body color for the rest of your bunny body. You can cut your second color yarn. Leave a tail for sewing in with a tapestry needle.
Rounds 22-31 SC 48 around.
Before we start our decreases we’re gonna do a few things. Pull up a big loop from your working yarn so you don’t accidentally pull out any stitches.
Sew in all your tails using a tapestry needle. (I show how I do this on the video that goes with this pattern)
Stuff the bottom half of your bunny with polyfill.
Find the center of your bunny face and stitch on the mouth with a tapestry needle and a scrap piece of black yarn (about 12 inches is plenty)
Tip: I like to use a piece of yarn to find the center of my bunny.
To see this step on video skip to the 24:20 mark in the video that goes with this post linked at the top.
I like to put the bottom tip of my mouth in Round 22, the top tip in Round 25 and the two smile tips in Round 23.
Now attach your bunny nose in between Rounds 25 and 26, right on top of the mouth.
Position the Eyes centered above the nose and between Rounds 27 and 28. I usually have about 3 stitches between my eyes.
Ok back to our bunny body!
Insert your hook back into the loop you left up and begin Round 32.
Round 32: SC 6, DEC* around 6 times (42) – remember I prefer the invisible decrease method here for a cleaner look
Round 33: SC 5, DEC* around 6 times (36)
Round 34: SC 4, DEC* around 6 times (30)
Round 35: SC 3, DEC* around 6 times (24)
Finish stuffing your bunny.
Round 36: SC 2, DEC* around 6 times (18)
Add any more stuffing if necessary.
Round 37: SC 1, DEC* around 6 times (12)
Round 38: DEC around 6 times (6) Cut your yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
Thread your tail onto a tapestry needle and close the top of your bunny by picking up the front loop of every stitch and pulling your tail through all the loops. (I show how to do this in the video that goes with this pattern)
Switch to your stripe color when finishing the last sc in Round 5.
Round 6: Using your stripe color, SC in each stitch around (21)
Switch to your body color when finishing the last sc in Round 6.
Round 7: using your body color DEC, SC 9, DEC, SC 8 (19)
Switch to your stripe color when finishing the last sc in Round 7.
Round 8: using your stripe color, SC in each stitch around (19)
Switch to your body color when finishing the last sc in Round 8.
Round 9: using your body color DEC, SC 8, DEC, SC 7 (17)
Switch to your stripe color when finishing the last sc in Round 9.
Round 10: using your stripe color, SC in each stitch around (17)
Switch to your body color when finishing the last sc in Round 10. You can cut your stripes color now and sew in your tails.
Also, sew in your first tail from round 1.
Round 11: using your body color, DEC, SC 7, DEC, SC 6 (15)
Round 12: SC in each stitch around (15)
Round 13: DEC, SC 6, DEC, SC 5 (13)
Round 14: SC in each stitch around (13)
Round 15: DEC, SC 5, DEC, SC 4 (11)
Rounds 16-18: SC in each stitch around (11)
Tie off leaving a long tail for attaching.
Ear 2 – Solid Version
Round 1: SC 7 into magic circle (7)
Round 2: INC in each stitch around (14)
Round 3: INC, SC* around (21)
Rounds 4-6: SC in each stitch (21)
Sew in your tail from Round 1.
Round 7: DEC, SC 9, DEC, SC 8 (19)
Round 8: SC in each stitch around (19)
Round 9: DEC, SC 8, DEC, SC 7 (17)
Round 10: SC in each stitch around (17)
Also, sew in your first tail from round 1.
Round 11: DEC, SC 7, DEC, SC 6 (15)
Round 12: SC in each stitch around (15)
Round 13: DEC, SC 6, DEC, SC 5 (13)
Round 14: SC in each stitch around (13)
Round 15: DEC, SC 5, DEC, SC 4 (11)
Rounds 16-18: SC in each stitch around (11)
Tie off leaving a long tail for attaching.
Attaching Ears
Using your sewing pins, mark off where you want to attach the ears. I like to use the rows as a guide here.
Thread your tail onto a tapestry needle and begin sewing each ear on by inserting your needle into the body of the bunny then into the bottom of the ear.
Once your ear is completely attached, tie off and sew in your tail.
Repeat for both ears.
Congratulations, you just finished your first Ava Bunny!
I really hope you enjoyed this free crochet bunny pattern. This design is near and dear to my heart and I am so happy to finally being able to share it with you!
If you post any pics of your Ava Bunny I’d love to see! Tag me on social media @acraftyconcept or use #ACraftyConceptPatterns and I’ll see it!
As always, you are more than welcome to sell your finished Ava Bunny, I just request you credit me for the design so other crocheters can find me.
Learn how to make this adorable crochet puppy amigurumi inspired by the main character in the children’s book Boone. Free crochet pattern.
Hello! I’m Amanda from Loops and Love Crochet and I’m so excited to be guest posting on Ashley’s amazing blog today!
When I saw the “Crafty Design Challenge” on the blog a few months ago, I couldn’t resist challenging myself to design a little crochet puppy amigurumi inspired by the adorable dog in the book, Boone written by Ashley’s cousin, April.
I was so shocked and honored that my Boone amigurumi was the one chosen as the contest winner!
If you haven’t read Boone yet, you should check it out. It really is a sweet story that kids will love. It got the seal of approval from my two kids when I read it to them one night this week at bedtime.
It features a lost puppy who finds a home just in time for Christmas. I also think it is so neat that the story is inspired by the true story of how April found her dog, Boone.
My girls loved each loved having their own “Boone” to cuddle while looking at the book, and now these little puppies are a sleeping favorite!
With the holidays coming soon, this book would make a great gift for a child. Plus, if you pair the book with this crochet puppy Boone amigurumi, it would make a perfect little gift set!
Keep reading for the free crochet pattern for this Boone inspired amigurumi below!
INV DEC – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on hook.
ImportantNotes:
Magic Circle – Make a circle with your yarn, insert crochet hook into circle and draw up a loop. Use this loop to start your first chain 1 of the pattern. Check out YouTube if you need a tutorial on creating the magic circle.
Continuous Rounds – This pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining. After you finish the stitches of one round, start right on the next without joining between. I find it handy to use a stitch marker (or a piece of yarn) to mark the start of each round so you know when each round starts/ends.
Color Changes – change colors at the end of the round. Complete last single crochet of the round until the last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and pull through last step of the single crochet. So your single crochet will go like this: insert hook into last stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over with new color, pull through both loops on hook.
Stuff as you go – Add stuffing to the legs, body and head as you work it up. Make sure you are finished stuffing the legs and the body section before your decreases make the opening too narrow. Also, be sure to add a lot of stuffing to the neck area before you move on to the head. This will help minimize the head wobbling.
Boone Puppy Amigurumi
HEAD
The head is worked from bottom to top. Stuff as you go
Round 1: Magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)
Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)
Round 5: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)
Round 6: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 4, repeat around (36)
Rounds 7-15: SC in each stitch around (36)
*Insert safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, approximately 7 stitches apart.
Round 16: INV DEC, SC in next 4 stitches, repeat around (30)
Round 17: INV DEC, SC in next 3 stitches, repeat around (24)
Round 18: INV DEC, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around (18)
*Make sure you have added enough stuffing to the head by this point.
Round 19: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around (12)
Round 20: INV DEC around (6)
Fasten off and sew top of head closed. Weave in ends and then cut your yarn.
EARS (make 2)
Leave the ears unstuffed.
Round 1:In grey, Magic circle, ch 1, 6 SC stitches into ring (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Rounds 3-6: SC in each stitch around (12)
*Change color to off-white.
Rounds 7-15: SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 16: INV DEC, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around (9)
Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto the head.
Use your yarn needle to sew the ears on the head. I lined mine up starting between the 3rdand 4th round from the top of the head.
SNOUT, NOSE, AND MOUTH
Round 1:In grey, magic circle, chain 1 and make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)
*If you are going to use a safety nose, do not pull the center ring completely tight yet. Leave the yarn tail out so you can pull the circle tight later. If you’re embroidering on the nose, you can go ahead and pull it tight and work over your yarn tail.
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Rounds 3-4: SC in each stitch around (12)
Fasten off and cut yarn, leaving a long tail to sew the snout onto the head.
Insert safety nose into the middle of the ring, pull the yarn tail tight to secure the ring around the nose, and then fasten the back of the safety nose. Next use your yarn needle and black embroidery thread to stitch on the mouth. I just made one stitch going downwards a couple rounds and then made a stitch on each side to form a mouth.
Place the snout on the dog’s face (if you want you can stick some stuffing inside the snout around the post of the safety nose first). I centered the snout on the face in the middle of the eyes.
The top of the snout lines up with the bottom of the eyes. You can pin the snout in place before you start sewing, if you’d like.
Use your yarn needle to sew on the snout, making sure to pass through each of the stitches around the edge and then through a stitch on the head as you work your way around the snout.
LEGS (make 2)
*Stuff the legs as you go. Make sure that you firmly stuff the legs and body sections, but not so firmly that you can see the stuffing through the stitches.
Round 1: In grey, magic circle, chain 1, 6 SC into ring. (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around. (12)
Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around. (18)
Rounds 4-6: SC in each stitch around. Join, ch 1. (18)
Round 7: SC in first 5 stitches, INV DEC 4 times, SC in last 5. (14)
Round 8: SC in first 5 stitches, INV DEC 2 times, SC in last 5. (12)
Round 9: SC in each stitch around (12)
*Change color to off-white
Rounds 10-17: SC in each stitch around (12)
*Stuff the leg about ¾ of the way up (leaving space at the top of the leg so that when you start working the body, the stuffing isn’t getting caught in your stitches.
Fasten off the first leg and cut yarn (leaving a tail). Follow the instructions above again to make the second leg, but do not fasten off. Instead, add 5 more SC stitches to the second leg and then continue on to the body instructions below to join the legs and work up the body.
I made a quick video tutorial to help you with the steps below for joining the legs together and crocheting the first round of the body. You can find the video tutorial on YouTube here. I’d love it if you subscribed to my channel while you’re there!
BODY
*Add stuffing to the body as you go. Remember to stuff firmly, but not so firm that you can see the stuffing through the stitches. Make sure the top of the body is well stuffed before sewing on the head. This will help keep the head from wobbling when it is sewn on.
Round 1: Join the legs with a SC in the next stitch on the first leg (this is the stitch after you fastened off the first leg). SC in the next 11 stitches around one of the legs and then around the 12 stitches on the other.
You have completed the first round of the body. You may want to use a stitch marker to keep track of where your rounds start and end on the body. (24)
Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 3 stitches, repeat around. (30)
Rounds 3-9: SC in each stitch around. (30)
Round 10: INV DEC, SC in next 3 stitches, repeat around. (24)
Rounds 11-12: SC in each stitch around. (24)
Round 13: INV DEC, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around (18)
Rounds 14-15: SC in each stitch around (18)
Round 16: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around(12)
Round 17: SC in each stitch around (12)
Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the head on to the body a little later.
ARMS– make 2
*Lightly stuff the bottom half of the arms
Round 1: In grey, magic circle, ch 1, 6 SC into ring (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (9)
Rounds 3-6: SC in each stitch around (9)
*Change color to off-white.
Rounds 7-16: SC in each stitch around (9)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Cut yarn. Assembly instructions are at the end of the pattern.
TAIL
Leave the tail unstuffed.
Round 1: In grey, magic circle, ch 1, 4 SC into ring (4)
Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (6)
Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around (8)
Round 4: SC in each stitch around (8)
*Change color to off-white.
Rounds 5-9: SC in each stitch around (8)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Cut yarn. Continue to assembly instructions below.
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
1) Attaching the Head to the Body – Make sure the body is stuffed well all the way to the top of the neck. Next, you’ll be sewing the head to the body. I find it helpful to pin the head in place in a few places to help keep the face centered and facing forwards.
Use your yarn needle to sew around all the stitches around the top of the body, passing through a stitch on the head each time (see photo above). Make sure to sew around each stitch a couple times to attach the head securely so there is no wobbling. Weave in ends and cut yarn.
2)Attaching the Arms to the Body – Sew the tops of the arms closed and then sew arms onto the sides of the body, lined up in the first round at the top of the body. To keep the color change less noticeable, you can line up the color change side of the arms between the inner arm and the body. Weave in ends.
3)Attaching the Tail to the Back of the Body – Sew the top of the tail closed. Use your yarn needle to sew the tail to the back of the body. I attached mine in the 5th round from the top of the legs/start of body.
That’s it! You’re finished! I hope that you have enjoyed making this crochet puppy pattern and are in love with the adorable little dog amigurumi you have just created! I’d love to see them! Below are the links to where you can find and tag me!
Thank you so much, Ashley, for letting me guest post on your blog today! It’s been a lot of fun!
Amanda – Loops and Love Crochet
Amanda is the yarn-addicted mom, wife, teacher and the crochet designer behind Loops and Love Crochet. She started on the crochet designing and blogging adventure about 2 years ago by launching her blog and sharing her crochet designs with the world. Amanda lives in Alberta, Canada where she is also a junior high school teacher. When she is not crocheting, she is usually chasing after her two young girls, spending time with family, snowboarding, playing ultimate frisbee, and eating sour candy.
*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy and paste claiming it as your own. Please do not re-publish my photos as your own. Please do not copy this pattern and share as your own, in part or in whole. Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!
