Easy Crochet Beanie Pattern

Learn how to create this easy crochet beanie pattern from start to finish. It's the perfect crochet hat for beginners. Includes a full video tutorial.

Learn how to crochet this easy crochet beanie pattern from start to finish. It’s the perfect crochet hat for beginners. Includes a full video tutorial.

Here is the highly requested pattern for the closed version of the best-selling Claire Bun Beanie! I hope you love this pattern just as much as the bun beanie version!

It’s a great easy crochet beanie pattern for beginners and the style is super trendy as far as crochet pom beanies go!

If you prefer to watch the video tutorial, I have linked it here for you. I highly recommend the video because I share some “pro tips” throughout the video that might be helpful for you.

Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links, meaning I may receive a small commission, at NO ADDITIONAL cost to you, from purchases made using the links provided.

If you prefer an ad-free experience, you can purchase the PDF in my shop here.

Closed Claire Beanie

This pattern is for an adult-size beanie for heads with a circumference of 22 inches – 23 inches.

If you would like to make a beanie for a child’s size head with a circumference of 20-21 inches, you could always drop down a hook size.

Sizes from newborn – toddler are also available. You can purchase the PDF here or click here to check out the free version on my blog.

Materials

In the video, you will notice I use my Clover Amour size J hook. With Clover Amour hooks, my tension is much tighter, so I had to jump up a hook size.

I (5.5mm) crochet hook
4-5oz of worsted weight yarn. I used “I Love This Yarn” from Hobby Lobby
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Wooden Tag (optional)
Faux Fur Pom (optional)

If you are wondering which worsted-weight yarn would be best, I did a yarn experiment for the Claire Bun Beanie and posted all the results! Maybe it will help you choose the best yarn for your beanies.

Stitch Key (US Terms)

SC = Single Crochet
CH = Chain
PS = Puff Stitch (explained below)
PSDEC = Puff Stitch Decrease (explained below) BLO = Back Loop Only (explained below)
YO = Yarn Over
INC= Increase (explained below)
SL ST= Slip Stitch

Puff Stitch
YO, insert hook into next stitch and pull up a loop. Now you have 3 loops on your hook. YO insert hook into the same space and pull up another loop ( 5 loops) repeat two more times (for a total of 4 times) until you have 9 loops on your hook, YO then pull through all loops. Secure with a CH stitch.

Puff Stitch Decrease
YO, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop. Repeat two more times until you have 7 loops on your hook. YO, Insert hook into next stitch and pull up a loop. Repeat two more times until you have 13 loops total on your hook. YO and pull through all 13 loops. Secure with a CH stitch.

Back Loop Only
When you are looking on top of your work you will see a SC stitch makes a V shape. Put your hook under only the loop furthest away from you, and make your SC there. Instead of under both loops with a normal SC. If you are still having trouble with this stitch you can search Youtube for “single crochet back loop only” and you will see lots of tutorials.

Increase
Put two stitches in the same space. In this case it will be two SC stitches.

GAUGE

3”x3” Square
10 stitches by 10 rows Single Crochet

Brim
Make a slip knot and CH 10

Row 1: skip the chain closest to your hook and SC in the next 9 stitches. CH 1 and turn work. Row 2-50: SCBLO in next 9 stitches. CH 1, turn.
GAUGE: ADULT BRIM SHOULD BE ABOUT 14 INCHES IN LENGTH

TIP: Be careful not to make your “CH 1’s” too tight. If you do your brim will not stretch enough to fit an adult head. When you finish your 50 rows and join the brim closed, you should be able to stretch it without being restricted from anything other than that’s as far as the yarn its self will stretch.

This will create the brim of your beanie. Now its time to join to the beginning of the brim so your work creates a circle.

After finishing row 50 still do your CH and turn as normal. Fold the band in half, with the RS facing together.

Working through both loops on each end of the band, SL ST to join. CH 1, turn band right side out and turn your work 90 degrees to start working on the hat body. (9 SL STs, ch 1)

Now flip your brim inside out so that your join you just completed in on the inside of the beanie. This is the “good side” of your work.

You never turn your work from here on out.

Hat Body

Row 1: SC 55 stitches around the brim by evenly spacing them out. Since you are working along the side of your brim you will need to make your own places to put your stitches. Join back into your first SC, then CH up 1.

Row 2: PS in the same space as the CH 1 (Don’t forget the CH for securing your puff stitch after you complete each one) Skip the next stitch, PS in the next stitch. Continue around until you have 28 PS total. Join into the top of your first PS and CH 1.

Row 3: PS in the first CH 1 space that was created after securing your PS in Row 2. Continue putting a PS in CH 1 space from Row 2 until you have 28 PS. Join into the top of your first PS. CH 1.

Row 4: PS around starting in the space RIGHT next to your CH 1. Join back into your first PS, CH 1. (28)

Rows 5-9: Alternate Row 3 and Row 4 until you have 8 total rows of PS. (28)

If you want your beanie to be less slouchy, you will leave off row 9 and continue to the decrease rows.

Decrease Rows

Row 10: *PS in the next 3 CH 1 spaces then PSDEC.* Repeat from * around. Join into your first PS, CH 1. (23 PS)

Row 11: PSDEC over the next two CH spaces.*PS in the next 2 CH 1 spaces then another PSDEC.* Repeat from * around. You will end with 1 PS in the last Ch 1 space. Join into your first PS, CH 1. (17 PS)

Row 12: PS in the first CH 1 space. * PSDEC, PS in the next CH 1 space* Repeat from * around, ending with 2 PS. Join back into your first PS. CH 1. (12)

Row 13: PS in the first CH 1 space. *PSDEC* around, ending with a PS. Join back into your first PS, CH 1. (7)

Row 14: SC in the same stitch as your CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Be sure to SC into the actual stitch and not into the spaces. Join back into your first SC. (14)