Easy Crochet Lamb Toy- Free Crochet Pattern

March 10, 2023January 3, 2024Leave a comment

This easy crochet lamb pattern is a perfect crochet pattern for beginners. It works up super fast and the finished piece is an absolutely adorable crochet lamb toy!

This easy crochet lamb pattern is a perfect pattern for beginners. It works up super fast and the finished piece is an absolutely adorable crochet lamb toy!

Created by Guest Designer Melanie from August Rainbow Crochet

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/a ugustrainbowcrochet/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/augustrainbowcrochet
Website: https://augustrainbowcrochet.com

This post contains affiliate links meaning I (Ashley) may receive a small commission from purchases made at no extra cost to you.

You can find the Ad-Free Version of Luna Lamb here!

If you love crocheting cute and cuddly stuffed animals, you’re in for a treat! This free crochet pattern is for a charming stuffed lamb that’s sure to steal your heart.

This little crochet lamb will make the perfect gift for a special child in your life, or a sweet addition to your own collection.

If you are looking for more crochet stuffed animal patterns be sure to check out the Ava Bunny, Doxie Chicken or Issac Lion

Materials

3.5 mm crochet hook
6 mm crochet hook
super bulky (category 6) yarn in your chosen wool colour- about 26.7 yards
worsted weight (category 4) yarn in your chosen contrast colour- about 30 yards
poly fill for stuffing
darning needle
scissors
stitch marker (optional)

Stitch Key (US Terms)

mc– magic circle
sc– single crochet
inc– increase (2 sc into the same stitch)
dec– decrease (sc 2 together)

Gauge

Gauge is not important for this pattern.

Notes

You may want to go up or down a hook size for either of the suggested hook sizes, depending on your tension. The goal is to create a fabric tight enough that the stuffing doesn’t show through.

This pattern is worked in the round. Do not chain 1 or turn at the end of each row.

Finished Measurements

Approximately 11” from head to toe

Crochet Lamb Toy Pattern

Head

Start with your 3.5 mm hook and worsted-weight yarn.

Round 1- in a mc, sc 6 (6)

Round 2- inc in each stitch around (12)

Round 3- sc in each stitch around (12)

Round 4- (sc 1, inc) repeat around (18)

Round 5- sc in each stitch around (18)

*Note- If you have a very tight tension, you may want to crochet loosely in the next round so that the 6mm hook will fit into the stitches more easily.

Round 6- (sc 2, inc) repeat around (24)

Fasten off. Then attach your super bulky yarn and switch to your 6mm hook.

Round 7-10 (4 rounds)- sc in each stitch around (24)

Round 11- (sc 2, dec) repeat around (18)

Round 12- (sc 1, dec) repeat around (12)

Stuff head firmly with poly fill.

Round 13- dec around (6)

Fasten off. Use the darning needle to sew the hole closed and pull the yarn back up into the head to hide the tail.

Body

Working with super bulky yarn and a 6mm hook:

Round 1- in a mc, sc 8 (8)

Round 2- inc in each stitch around (16)

Round 3- (sc 1, inc) repeat around (24)

Rounds 4-5- sc in each stitch around (24)

Round 6- (sc 4, dec) repeat around (20)

Round 7- (sc 3, dec) repeat around (16)

Round 8- sc around (16)

Round 9- (sc 2,dec) repeat around (12)

Round 10- (sc 1, dec) repeat around (8)

Round 11- sc around (8)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body.

Ears (Make 2)

Working with worsted weight and 3.5mm hook:

Round 1- in a mc, sc 6 (6)

Round 2- inc in each stitch around (12)

Round 3- (sc 1, inc) repeat around (18) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Arms (Make 2)

Working with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook:

Round 1- in a mc, sc 6 (6)

Rounds 2-12 (11 rounds)- sc around (6)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Do not stuff the arms.

Legs (Make 2)

Working with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook:

Round 1- in a mc, sc 6 (6)

Round 2- (sc 2, inc) repeat (8)

Rounds 3-14 (12 rounds)- sc around (8)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Stuff only the bottom half of each leg.

Crochet Lamb Toy Assembly

1- Use the long tail left on the body to sew the head onto the body.

2- Fold the ears in half and sew them onto round 10 of the head, about 8 stitches apart.

3- Flatten the top of each arm and sew them to the sides of the body, on round 10.

4- Flatten the top of each leg and sew them to the bottom of the body, positioning them between the top of round 1 and the bottom of round 3.

Embroidering the face

Nose: Using your darning needle and pink yarn, make a “v” shape for the nose in the middle of the face, with the point of the v in the magic circle.

Eyes: Using black thread, embroider 2 eyes by making about 3 passes over the same stitch. The eyes should be between rounds 4 and 5 of the head, 5 or 6 stitches apart.

You are all done! We hope you enjoyed this crochet lamb toy pattern! We would love to see your creations!! Tag us on Instagram @AcraftyConcept and @augustrainbowcrochet

Happy Crocheting
❤️Ashley

How to Crochet an Amigurumi Bunny- Free Pattern

March 24, 2021December 19, 20222 Comments

Learn how to make this adorable Amigurumi Bunny by following this simple, free crochet pattern. The perfect crochet pattern for spring!

Let’s hop into this month’s guest designer! Sarah Dee Crochet has created this adorable crochet bunny pattern and is sharing it with all of you for FREE!!

Meet Turnip the bunny and his carrot friends! This is the perfect pattern for spring- with Easter right around the corner and all the spring decor going up in everyone’s homes this bunny pattern will pair great with it all!

Turnip is a crochet amigurumi bunny, made to hold his precious carrot. In the pattern, you will also find step-by-step instructions to make your own customizable carrot garland.

Turnip LOVES carrots! Turnip’s main job is to collect all of the carrots for the annual Bunny Picnic. This is no easy task, as he is just one bunny! Never doubt a bunny on a mission, though. He always gets the job done.

Click here for a free Hoppy Easter Coloring Sheet!

This post may contain affiliate links meaning ACC may receive a small commission from purchases made at no extra cost to you.

Instagram- https://www.instagram.com/sarahdeecrochet/

Website – www.sarahdeecrochet.com

Etsy – www.etsy.com/shop/sarahdeecrochet

Ravelry – https://www.ravelry.com/designers/sarah-prather

You can find the paid PDF version of the pattern here

Materials

Yarn- I share the ones I used below

Polyfill

Black & white embroidery thread

Pink yarn for embroidering the nose

I Love This Yarn by Hobby Lobby – Worsted Weight 4

Walnut (85g)

Linen (1g)

Desert Glaze (6g per carrot)

Mid Green (4g per carrot/5g for garland string)

Stitch Key (US Terms)

Rnd – round

chX – chain X amount of stitches

MR – magic adjustable ring

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

inc – 2sc in the same stitch

dec – invisible decrease (I have a tutorial on the invisible decrease under the “Tips & Tricks” Highlight on my Instagram.)

FLO – front loop only

FO – fasten off

Gauge

There is no specific gauge for amigurumi. You can use any yarn you would like, as long as you have a corresponding hook size. I always size down around 2 whole sizes for what the particular yarn calls for.

For example, I am using a worsted weight 4 yarn, that calls for a 5.5mm hook. I have sized down to a 3.25mm hook to create a tight fabric that will hold its shape when it is stuffed but won’t stretch out the stitches.

You do not want to stretch your amigurumi to where you can see the filling. If you are having a hard time with this, it might be because your stitches are too loose, you need to size down your hook further.

Turnip and the carrots are made in continuous rounds. Take care to always move up the stitch marker to the last stitch, at the end of each round. Stitch count is in ( ) at the end of each row. Make sure to have the correct number of stitches before moving on to the next round.

Amigurumi Bunny Pattern

Head:

Using Walnut

Rnd 1: 6sc in a MR (6)

Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)

Rnd 3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: [2sc, inc] x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: [3sc, inc] x 6 (30)

Rnd 6: [4sc, inc] x 6 (36)

Rnd 7-9: sc in each st (36)

Rnd 10: 16sc, [inc] x 4, 16sc (40)

These 4 inc sts will be the center-front of Turnip’s face. Place a st marker, while you work, to keep track of these sts.

Rnd 11-12: sc in each st (40)

Rnd 13: 16sc, [dec] x 4, 16sc (36)

Rnd 14: sc in each st (36)

Rnd 15: [4sc, dec] x 6 (30)

Rnd 16: [3sc, dec] x 6 (24)

Rnd 17: [2sc, dec] x 6 (18)

Stuff the head, firm. Continue stuffing until the last rnd.

Rnd 18: [sc, dec] x 6 (12)

Rnd 19: dec x 6 (6)

Sl st into the next st to FO. Snip yarn.

Do not close the hole until you have added the eyes indents.

Use straight pins and mark where the eyes will be placed. The eyes should be approximately 12 sts apart. Use the st marker you placed to mark the nose, as a reference when placing the eyes.

Learn how to make this adorable Amigurumi Bunny by following this simple, free crochet pattern. The perfect crochet pattern for spring!

Step One, use a 12-inch piece of yarn, in Walnut. Insert the needle in the hole at the bottom of the head, and from back to front, into the stitch that you marked with your pin.

Step Two, insert the needle back into the sc directly above where your yarn tail is coming out. Pull to reduce slack.

Step Three, repeat on the second eye, and out through the hole at the bottom of the head.

Step Four, pull tight until you have your desired face shape. Tie the yarn together and hide ends on the inside of the head.

Embroider the eyes, over the eye indents. Add white eye detail in the center of the eye. Embroider the nose, over 3 sts, on rnd 9. Make sure to center the nose between the eyes.

Close the hole by weaving your tail through the FLO of the remaining 6 sts. Pull to close. Bury the tail inside of the head.

Amigurumi Bunny Ears:

Using Walnut

Rnd 1: 6sc in a MR (6)

Rnd 2: sc in each st (6)

Rnd 3: [inc, sc] x 3 (9)

Rnd 4: sc in each st (9)

Rnd 5: [2sc, inc] x 3 (12)

Rnd 6: sc in each st (12)

Rnd 7: [3sc, inc] x 3 (15)

Rnd 8-12: sc in each st (15)

Rnd 13: [3sc, dec] x 3 (12)

Rnd 14: sc in each st (12)

Rnd 15: Pinch both sides of the ears together, 6sc across both sides to close. Do not stuff ears.

Rnd 16: Fold the ear in half, 3sc across to secure the fold. FO and snip yarn, leave a long tail for sewing.

Using straight pins to hold them in place, sew the ears to the side of the head, over rnds 5 & 7. Make sure they line up with each other.

Add color to the cheeks and inner ears, using blush and a fluffy brush.

Amigurumi Bunny Body:

Using Walnut

Rnd 1: 6sc in a MR (6)

Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)

Rnd 3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: [2sc, inc] x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: [3sc, inc] x 6 (30)

Rnd 6: [4sc, inc] x 6 (36)

Rnd 7: [5sc, inc] x 6 (42)

Rnd 8: [6sc, inc] x 6 (48)

Rnd 9-15: sc in each st (48)

Rnd 16: [6sc, dec] x 6 (42)

Rnd 17: sc in each st (42)

Rnd 18: [5sc, dec] x 6 (36)

Rnd 19: [2sc, dec] x 6, 12sc (30)

Rnd 20-25: sc in each st (30)

Rnd 26: 7sc, inc, [sc, inc] x 4, 14sc (35)

These 4 inc sts are the center-front of Turnip’s body. You can place a marker here to keep track of these sts.

Rnd 27-28: sc in each st (35)

Rnd 29: [3sc, dec] x 7 (28)

Rnd 30: [5sc, dec] x 4 (24)

Stuff the body, firm. Continue stuffing until the last rnd.

Rnd 31: [2sc, dec] x 6 (18)

Rnd 32: [4sc, dec] x 3 (15)

Sl st in the next st to FO. Snip yarn. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Amigurumi Bunny Arms:

Using Walnut

Rnd 1: 5sc in a MR (5)

Rnd 2: inc x 5 (10)

Rnd 3-9: sc in each st (10)

Stuff arms, lightly.

Rnd 10: Pinch both sides of the arm together, 5sc across to close. (5)

FO and snip yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing to the body.

Amigurumi Bunny Legs:

Using Walnut

Rnd 1: 6sc in a MR (6)

Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)

Rnd 3: [3sc, inc] x 3 (15)

Rnd 4: sc in each st (15)

Rnd 5: [3sc, dec] x 3 (12)

Rnd 6: sc in each st (12)

Rnd 7: [4sc, dec] x 2 (10)

Rnd 8-11: sc in each st (10)

Stuff the toe of the foot, lightly.

Rnd 12: dec x 5 (5)

Sl st in the next st to FO. Snip yarn, leaving a tail for sewing. Close the hole by weaving the tail through the FLO of the remaining 5 sts. Pull to close.

Amigurumi Bunny Tail:

Using Linen

Rnd 1: 5sc in a MR (5)

Rnd 2: inc x 5 (10)

Rnd 3: sc in each st (10)

Rnd 4: 8sc, dec (9)

Sl st into the next st to FO and snip yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing to the body.

ASSEMBLY:

Use straight pins to hold your pieces together while sewing.

Sew the head to the body. Make sure that the head and the center of the chest line up with each other if you want the head facing forward, I turned my bunny’s head slightly to the side.

Sew the arms to the side of the body. Slightly slanted over rnds 22-27. Make sure you have the proper placement for holding the carrot.

Sew the feet on the bottom of the body, between rnds 3-5, pointed slightly outward.

Sew tail to the body over rnds 7-9, centered between the feet. Stuff lightly.

Sew the carrot to the arms.

Carrot:

Starting with Desert Glaze

Rnd 1: 6sc in a MR (6)

Rnd 2: sc in each st (6)

Rnd 3: [2sc, inc] x 2 (8)

Rnd 4: sc in each st (8)

Rnd 5: [3sc, inc] x 2 (10)

Rnd 6: sc in each st (10)

Rnd 7: [4sc, inc] x 2 (12)

Rnd 8: sc in each st (12)

Rnd 9: [5sc, inc] x 2 (14)

Rnd 10: sc in each st (14)

Rnd 11: [6sc, inc] x 2 (16)

Rnd 12: sc in each st (16)

Rnd 13: [7sc, inc] x 2 (18)

Rnd 14-16: sc in each st (18)

Rnd 17: [sc, dec] x 6 (12)

Stuff the carrot, firm.

Change to Mid Green

Rnd 18: dec x 6 (6)

Rnd 19: sc in each st (6)

Rnd 20: Ch 7, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each ch, (6sl st on each leaf)

Sl st in the next sc. [Ch7, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each ch (6) Sl st in the next sc] x 5, Ch 7, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each ch, sl st across to secure and close the hole. You should have 7 carrot leaves. If you still have a small hole at the top, sl st again until the hole is closed.

Snip yarn and bury the end inside of the carrot.

Carrot Garland:

Using Mid Green

Ch 10, sl st in the 10th ch from hook. [Ch 20, sl st into the top of the next carrot] repeat until the last carrot has been attached. Ch 30, sl st in the 10th ch from hook. FO and sew in ends.

Thank you guys so much for hanging out with me today here on the A Crafty Concept Blog. I hope you love Turnip! If you make one I’d love to see it! Be sure to tag me on Instagram @sarahdeecrochet. I love watching these cuties come to life and seeing all the pretty color combos you guys come up with!

Talk Soon
Sarah

How to Crochet a Beginner Amigurumi Chicken- Free Crochet Pattern

March 19, 2021June 27, 20231 Comment

Do you want to know how to make the most simple amigurumi chicken ever? Follow this free chicken crochet pattern and full video tutorial to learn how.

It is my great pleasure to introduce to you the Doxie Chicken as our latest free pattern! This sweet gal was designed back in 2016 when I first opened my Etsy shop to sell finished stuffies.

This post contains affiliate links meaning I may receive a small commission from purchases made at no extra cost to you.

When I released a new stuffy design (I called it New Stuffy Monday), the first person to purchase it go to name it! The Doxie Chicken was purchased by my aunt and she decided to name it after my late great-grandmother because she raised and loved chickens.

So this one, like the Ava Bunny, has a little sentimental value with it.

If you love crocheting amigurumi you’re going to love the Doxie Chicken. Here’s what you will need to make your own.

MATERIALS (WITH CLICKABLE LINKS)

– F (3.75) mm Crochet Hook
– Scissors
– 3 colors of worsted weight yarn. One for the main body color, one for your feet/beak and one for comb (chicken mohawk). I will be using Dishe cotton yarn in the color Creme Brulee for my feet and beak, Linen for my body and Pomegranate for my comb.
– 15mm Safety Eyes
– Yarn Needle
– 3 Sewing Pins
– Polyfil (fiberfill)

*I have linked most of the supplies I used in the materials section above.

Finished Amigurumi Chicken is about 7.5″ tall and 4.25″ wide.

There’s no gauge for this free amigurumi pattern. You can make it bigger or smaller by changing your hook and yarn combo.

STITCH KEY (US TERMS) ABBREVIATIONS

CH- Chain
SC- Single Crochet
INC- Increase (in this case- 2 SC in the same stitch)
DEC- Decrease, in this case, invisible decrease (explained below)
HDC- Half Double Crochet
SL ST- Slip Stitch
* To be repeated

SPECIAL STITCHES

Magic Circle –We will be using the Magic Circle method for this amigurumi chicken pattern. If you are unfamiliar with this technique please refer to the video that goes with this pattern
Invisible Decrease – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on hook.
Continuous Rounds – This pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining. After you finish the stitches of one round, start right on the next without joining between. I find it handy to use a stitch marker (or a piece of yarn) to mark the start of each round so you know when each round starts/ends.
Color Changes – change colors at the end of the round. Complete last single crochet of the round until the last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and pull through last step of the single crochet. So your single crochet will go like this: insert hook into last stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over with new color, pull through both loops on hook.

BEFORE YOU START– IMPORTANT

If you do plan on selling these cuties in your shop (either online or at markets), And I hope you do, I would include a warning that it is made with small pieces and children under 3 should be supervised when playing with them.

The safety eyes are in there REALLY GOOD and they’re super hard to pull apart after you snap them shut, but it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Alternatively, you could stitch on the eyes of your Doxie Chicken, here is a cute embroidered eye tutorial from Grace and Yarn

You can purchase the ad-free PDF pattern here

ok onward to the amigurumi chicken pattern!

Free Crochet Chicken Pattern: The Doxie Chicken

Starting with your first leg and using your feet color worsted weight yarn.

Round 1: SC 6 into magic circle (6)

Round 2: INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: INC, SC* around 6 times (18)

Round 4: INC, SC, SC* around 6 times (24)

Rounds 5-6: SC in each stitch around (24)

Switch to body-color yarn to finish out your last SC in round 6. Rounds 7-13 will be made with your body color yarn.

Rounds 7-13: SC in each stitch around (24)

You can cut your feet color yarn now.

SLST into the next space and tie off. Sew in your tails.

Repeat rounds 1-13 for your second leg, but do not cut your yarn and tie off.

Sew in your tails you made when starting each foot.

We are going to start Round 14 working on the second leg- this will be the first round of our chicken body.

For extra help skip to the 11:00 mark in the video that goes with this post (linked at the top)

Round 14: SC 24 (leave in your stitch marker after the 24th SC.)

Grab your first leg and place a SLST in the SLST from where you tied off in Round 13 of leg 1.

SC in the same space where you SLST to tie off Round 13 from leg 1.

So you are slip stitching into a slip stitch- then putting a single crochet into the same space where the original slip stitch was. If this is confusing please refer to the video that goes with this pattern.

This is the best way I could get it where there wasn’t a hole between the two legs that would have to be stitched closed. If you prefer to stitch up a small hole that’s totally fine. The main thing is round 14 has 48 stitches total, 24sc for the first leg and 24sc for the second leg.

SC 23 more times around the leg. (48 stitches total in Round 14)

SLST into the same space as your 24th sc from Round 13 on leg 2. (where your stitch marker is.) CH 1.

None of the slip stitches count as a stitch, they’re just creating the desired shape of our chicken.

Round 15-31: SC around (48)

Before we start our decreases we’re gonna do a few things. Pull up a big loop from your working yarn so you don’t accidentally pull out any stitches.

Sew in all your tails using a tapestry needle. (I show how I do this on the video that goes with this pattern)

Stuff the bottom half of your chicken with polyfill.

Find the center of your chicken face to help you line up your eyes.

Tip: I like to use a piece of yarn to find the center of my chicken.

Position the Eyes centered and between Rounds 27 and 28. I usually have about 3-5 stitches between my eyes. Depending on which size eyes I have.

Ok back to our crochet chicken body!

Insert your hook back into the loop you left up and begin Round 32.

Round 32: SC 6, DEC* around 6 times (42) – remember I prefer the invisible decrease method here for a cleaner look.

Round 33: SC 5, DEC* around 6 times (36)

Round 34: SC 4, DEC* around 6 times (30)

Round 35: SC 3, DEC* around 6 times (24)

Finish stuffing your chicken.

Round 36: SC 2, DEC* around 6 times (18)

Add any more stuffing if necessary.

Round 37: SC 1, DEC* around 6 times (12)

Round 38: DEC around 6 times (6) Cut your yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

Thread your tail onto a tapestry needle and close the top of your chicken by picking up the front loop of every stitch and pulling your tail through all the loops. (I show how to do this in the video that goes with this pattern)

Finish sewing in your tail.

Amigurumi Chicken Beak

Chain 7

Row 1: HDC 6. Ch 1, turn. (6)

Row 2: DEC HDC, HDC 4, DEC HDC. Ch 1, turn. (4)

Row 3: DEC HDC, DEC HDC. Ch 1, turn. (2)

Row 4: DEC HDC. Tie off and leave a long tail for sewing. (1)

Pin your beak centered under your eyes.

Use the long tail and a tapestry needle to attach to your chicken with a whip stitch. Tie off and sew in your tail.

Chicken Comb (mohawk)

Make 3.

Using your red yarn and working in the round.

Round 1: SC 7 into a magic circle (7)

Round 2: INC in each stitch around (14)

Round 3- 8: SC around (14)

SLST in the next stitch. Tie off leaving a long tail for attaching. Sew in your first tail.

Squish the first comb piece closed where the tail is in the back.

Line comb piece one up in the center of the chicken head kinda on her forehead.

Use pins to keep it in place so you can sew it on in a straight line.

Attach the comb piece by using the long tail you left and a tapestry needle.

I personally like to go up then back down so it’s “double attached” and really on there ;).

Repeat for all three comb pieces, lining them up, kinda touching each other, in a row across the top of your chicken head.

Tada!! Now you have a complete Doxie Chicken, isn’t she precious?

You can get creative and make these beauties in all sorts of different colors! I think brown or tan would be beautiful and I would love to see an “antique” looking chicken with linen, mustard, and rosy cheeks!

If you make one of these amigurumi chicken cuties I’d love to see. You can tag me on Instagram @acraftyconcept or use the hashtag #doxiechicken and ill see it! Thanks so much for hanging out today! Have an amazing day.

❤️ Ashley