Follow this beginner-friendly crochet rag doll pattern to learn how to make an adorable amigurumi rag doll – No sewing required!

I have kept this crochet ragdoll pattern a secret for too long. Finally being able to share it with you guys feels like taking a big deep breath after holding it for 3 minutes straight!

Since I have recently taught myself how to sew, due to the high demand for fabric face masks, I have been obsessed with fabric dolls.

I bought a couple from a few of my favorite makers on Instagram, tried my hand at sewing some myself…. then fell back into my comfort zone and happy place of just crocheting them.

I applied the same concept I learned from the sewing version to a crochet version and after a few weeks of trial and error, the amigurumi rag doll pattern was created.

Meet Gracie

I am so thrilled with how she turned out. The best thing about her… she requires no sewing! Unless you count one little seam you have to make after stuffing her.

I’m sure there are other crochet patterns out there that use a similar assembling method, but I haven’t seen one yet and I am so dang excited to show you what I came up with.

If you plan on selling Gracie dolls in your crochet shop (and I hope you do) You can download a free “adoption certificate” and include one with your orders for your customers to fill out.

You can use all kinds of types of yarn to make your crochet dolls. I made a giant Gracie Doll using Bernat Blanket yarn!

Wanna create a Giant Gracie Doll? Here’s the tutorial for how!

I have created similar freebies for a few of my other patterns like the Mia Moo Moo and the Ava Bunny, but the Gracie doll adoption certificate is a little different.

The Gracie Doll adoption certificate features a blank drawing of a doll so the recipient can color in their hair, skin tone, and accessories colors for the specific amigurumi rag doll they received.

This post may contain affiliate links meaning I may receive a small commission from purchases made at no extra cost to you.

If you want the ad-free PDF download for this pattern you can grab it through the link below in my shop for only $3.00

For my more visual friends, you can watch the full video tutorials here.

I had to break it up into three videos for time’s sake. The first one shows how to make the actual amigurumi rag doll and the second one is for her dress and accessories and the third one is how to assemble her all together.

Last but not least I created a coloring pack to help you design your Gracie Dolls! You can purchase that in my shop here

Here’s what you will need to make your own crochet amigurumi rag doll.

Materials
– Size F or 3.75mm crochet hook
– Size G or 4.0mm crochet hook
– Size H or 5.0mm Crochet hook
– Worsted weight yarn in your skin tone color, hair color, white (for the under dress), dress color, and accessories color. I will be using We Crochet Brava yarn in the colors Avacado, Rouge, Seraphim and Almond.
– Tapestry Needle ( Yarn Needle )
– Scissors
– Polyfill
– Nylon Headband
– Black Embroidery Thread
– Lip color embroidery thread or fingering weight yarn
– Stitch Marker
– 3 rubber bands

*I have linked most of the supplies I used in the materials section above.

We have created a free skin tone color chart showing some of our favorite yarns for a variety of skin tones.

STITCH KEY (US TERMS) ABBREVIATIONS

CH- Chain
SC- Single Crochet 
INC- Increase (in this case- 2 SC in the same stitch)
DEC- Decrease, in this case, invisible decrease (explained below)
SL ST- Slip Stitch
* To be repeated

SPECIAL STITCHES

• Magic Circle –We will be using the Magic Circle method for this crochet pattern. If you are unfamiliar with this technique I will link a good YouTube video for you here.
• Invisible Decrease – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on hook.  
• Continuous Rounds – This pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining. After you finish the stitches of one round, start right on the next without joining between. I find it handy to use a stitch marker (or a piece of yarn) to mark the start of each round so you know when each round starts/ends.
• Color Changes – change colors at the end of the round. Complete last single crochet of the round until the last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and pull through last step of the single crochet. So your single crochet will go like this: insert hook into last stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over with new color, pull through both loops on hook. 
• Back Bump: This is where you flip your starting chain over and insert your hook into the “back bump” of the chain and place your stitch there. If you are unfamiliar with this technique I would suggest watching the video that goes with this pattern. 

Before You Start- Important 

I have created a grid for more advanced crocheters to make crocheting your Gracie doll a little easier. The PDF version of the chart comes with the PDF purchase linked above, but here is a free online version for you to use.

Pro Tip: If you print out and laminate your grid you can use dry erase markers to mark off each line as you go and reuse it over and over again.

For everyone else, I have typed out each row individually, so if you are not familiar with following crochet grids don’t worry.

Amigurumi Rag Doll Pattern

We will be starting at the top of our head and working our way down to the bottom of the slip (that’s what I’m going to call her white under dress from now on)

SAVE TYING IN ALL YOUR TAILS TILL THE END

Front Piece

With your F crochet hook and your hair color

Chain 14.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from your hook- SC 13 in the Back Bump. CH 1, turn. (13)

Row 2: INC in the first stitch, SC 11, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (15)

Row 3: INC in the first stitch, SC 13, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (17)

Row 4: INC in the first stitch, SC 15, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (19)

Row 5: INC in the first stitch, SC 8.

Finish the 8th SC by switching to your skin tone color.

SC 5. Finish the 5th SC by switching back to your hair color.

Pro Tip: I like to use a separate ball of hair color yarn instead of carrying my yarn and crocheting over it. This turns out cleaner for me.

SC 4, INC in the last stitch. CH 1, turn (21)

For the rest of the color-changing rows I am just going to say how many stitches of each color.

Row 6: INC, SC 4, Skin Tone- SC 8, Hair- SC 7, INC in the last stitch. CH 1, turn (23)

Row 7: INC, SC 6, Skin Tone- SC 12, Hair- SC 3, INC in the last stitch. CH 1, turn (25)

Row 8: SC 4, Skin Tone- SC 14, Hair- SC 7. CH 1, turn (25)

Row 9: SC 5, Skin Tone- SC 17, Hair- SC 3. CH 1, turn (25)

Row 10: SC 3, Skin Tone- SC 19, Hair- SC 3. CH 1, turn (25)

Row 11: SC 2, Skin Tone- SC 21, Hair- SC 2. CH 1, turn (25)

Row 12: SC 2, Skin Tone- SC 21, Hair- SC 2. CH 1, turn (25)

Row 13: SC 1, Skin Tone- SC 23, Hair- SC 1. CH 1, turn (25)

Now we will just be using the skin tone color for the rest of the head.

Row 14: Skin Tone- SC 25. CH 1, turn (25)

Row 15: DEC, SC 21, DEC. CH 1, turn. (23)

Row 16: DEC, SC 5* 3 times DEC in the last stitch. (19)

Row 17: DEC, SC 15, DEC. CH 1, turn (17)

Row 18: DEC, SC 3* 3 times DEC in the last stitch. (13)

Row 19: DEC, SC 9, DEC. CH 1, turn (11)

Row 20: SC 11. Switch to white yarn when finishing the 11th SC. CH 1, turn.

Leave a 12″ skin tone tail for assembly.

Slip

Using your white yarn

Row 21: SC 11. CH 1, turn. (11)

Row 22: INC in the first stitch, SC 9, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (13)

Rows 23-24: SC 13. CH 1, turn (13)

Row 25: INC in the first stitch, SC 11, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (15)

Rows 26-27: SC 15. CH 1, turn (15)

Row 28: INC in the first stitch, SC 13, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (17)

Rows 29-30: SC 17. CH 1, turn (17)

Row 31: INC in the first stitch, SC 15, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (19)

Rows 32-33: SC 19. CH 1, turn (19)

Row 34: INC in the first stitch, SC 17, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (21)

Rows 35-36: SC 21. CH 1, turn (21)

Row 37: INC in the first stitch, SC 19, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (23)

Rows 38-39: SC 23. CH 1, turn (23)

Row 40: INC in the first stitch, SC 21, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (25)

Rows 41- 44: SC 25. CH 1. Do not cut yarn.

Back Piece

With your F crochet hook and your hair color

Chain 14.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from your hook- SC 13 in the Back Bump. CH 1, turn. (13)

Row 2: INC in the first stitch, SC 11, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (15)

Row 3: INC in the first stitch, SC 13, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (17)

Row 4: INC in the first stitch, SC 15, INC in the last stitch CH 1, turn. (19)

Row 5: INC in the first stitch, SC 17, INC in the last stitch. CH 1, turn (21)

Row 6: INC, SC 19, INC in the last stitch. CH 1, turn (23)

Row 7: INC, SC 21, INC in the last stitch. CH 1, turn (25)

Rows 8-14: SC 25. CH 1, turn. (25)

Row 15: DEC, SC 21, DEC. CH 1, turn. (23)

Row 16: DEC, SC 5* 3 times DEC in the last stitch. (19)

Row 17: DEC, SC 15, DEC. CH 1, turn (17)

Row 18: DEC, SC 3* 3 times DEC in the last stitch. (13)

Switch to Skin Tone yarn to finish out the last stitch in row 18.

Ball up some hair color yarn for assembly and secure it with a rubber band so it doesn’t get tangled up.

Row 19: DEC, SC 9, DEC. CH 1, turn (11)

Row 20: SC 11. Switch to white yarn when finishing the 11th SC. CH 1, turn. (11)

Be sure to leave a long tail of skin tone yarn for assembly.

Slip

Using your white yarn

Row 21: SC 11. CH 1, turn. (11)

Now we are going to make one half of the back of our slip. These rows will be referred to as “A”

Row 22a: INC, SC 4. CH 1, turn (6)

Rows 23a-24a: SC 6. CH 1, turn (6)

Row 25a: SC 5, INC. CH 1, turn (7)

Rows 26a-27a: SC 7. CH 1, turn (7)

Row 28a: INC, SC 6. CH 1, turn (8)

Rows 29a-30a: SC 8. CH 1, turn (8)

Row 31a: SC 7, INC. CH 1, turn (9)

Rows 32a-33a: SC 9. CH 1, turn (9)

Row 34a: INC, SC 8. CH 1, turn (10)

Rows 35a-36a: SC 10. CH 1, turn (10)

Row 37a: SC 9, INC. CH 1, turn (11)

Rows 38a-39a: SC 11. CH 1, turn (11)

Row 40a: INC, SC 10. CH 1, turn (12)

Rows 41a-44a: SC 12. CH 1, turn (12)

Cut your yarn and tie off.

Now we are going to make the second half of the back of our slip. These rows will be referred to as “B”

Leave about a 2 ft tail, then Insert your yarn back into the 6th SC from row 21.

We will use that tail for seeming up the back of our amigurumi rag doll after stuffing her.

Row 22b: SC 5, INC. CH 1, turn (7)

Rows 23b-24b: SC 7. CH 1, turn (7)

Row 25b: INC, SC 6. CH 1, turn (8)

Rows 26b-27b: SC 8. CH 1, turn (8)

Row 28b: SC 7, INC. CH 1, turn (9)

Rows 29b-30b: SC 9. CH 1, turn (9)

Row 31b: INC, SC 8. CH 1, turn (10)

Rows 32b-33b: SC 10. CH 1, turn (10)

Row 34b: SC 9, INC. CH 1, turn (11)

Rows 35b-36b: SC 11. CH 1, turn (11)

Row 37b: INC, SC 10. CH 1, turn (12)

Rows 38b-39b: SC 12. CH 1, turn (12)

Row 40b: SC 11, INC. CH 1, turn (13)

Rows 41b-44b: SC 13. CH 1, turn (13)

Ball up white yarn and secure with a rubber band until assembly.

Pull up a big loop and use a stitch marker as a way of holding it. You will insert your hook back in this loop for assembly.

Arms- Make two– Stuff as you go

Arms are made using your skin tone yarn and working in the round.

Round 1: SC 6 into a magic circle (6)

Round 2: INC, SC* 2 times. INC, INC (10)

Sew in your first tail.

Rounds 3-30: SC 10. (10)

Stuff your arms as you go.

Tie off

Legs- Make two– Stuff as you go

Legs are made using your skin tone yarn and working in the round. You may need a stitch marker for this part.

Round 1: SC 6 into a magic circle (6)

Round 2: INC in each stitch around (12)

Rounds 3: INC, SC* around 6 times (18)

Rounds 4-5: SC 18. (18)

Round 6: DEC 4 times, SC 10 (14)

Round 7: SC, DEC 2 times, SC 9 (12)

Sew in your first tail

Rounds 8-42: SC 12 (12)

Tie off

Hair Buns- Make two

Using your hair color yarn and your F crochet hook (buns are made in the round)

Round 1: SC 6 into magic circle. (6)

Round 2: INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: INC, SC* around 6 times (18)

Round 4: INC, SC, SC* around 6 times (24)

Round 5: INC, SC, SC, SC* around 6 times (30)

Rounds 6-8: SC 30. (30)

Sew in your first tail.

Round 9: DEC, SC, SC, SC* around 6 times (24)

Round 10: DEC, SC, SC* around 6 times (18)

Round 11: DEC, SC* around 6 times (12)

tie off.

Lightly stuff your hair buns with polyfill.

Assembly

Ok this is the trickiest part of the whole pattern and it’s kind of hard to explain in words but I’m gonna give it a shot! If you are struggling, refer to video 3 for help.

Lay the front piece of your doll right-side up.

Lay the back piece of your doll, on top of the front piece, wrong-side up.

Your right-sides should be touching each other.

All the balls of yarn you portioned off should be on the right side of your work (as in not the left).

Insert your hook back into the loop you left after finishing the second part of your back piece slip.

SC up the right side of the doll, being sure to go through the front piece and back piece at the same time.

You will have to make your own spots for your hook to go since you are working on the raw edge of your work.

I got over this in detail in video 3.

Do this for 18 stitches.

Grab one of your arms and squish it so the opening closes.

Put the opening between the front and back pieces of your doll and line up the stitches with the side stitches of the slip.

Going through both slip pieces and the doll arm stitches, SC 5.

Ther are 10 stitches around in the arm so pairing each stitch up with the one across from it will give you 5 stitches.

SC one more time in the last space of the slip (going through the back and front pieces of the slip) and switch to your skin tone color to finish out the stitch.

I like to use the tail left previously from crocheting the body pieces.

Cut your white yarn and leave a tail long enough to sew in at the end.

SC 2 stitches going through both the front and back pieces of your doll body with the skin tone color. This should be right at the neck portion of your doll.

Switch to your hair color yarn to finish out the second stitch. You should have left over hair colors yarn balled up to use.

SC 12 around the face and up the hair of your doll.

Place one bun between the front and back pieces of your doll (like you did the arm) and smoosh the opening closed.

Going through the bun stitches and both the front and back pieces of your doll, SC together with 6 SC stitches.

SC 13 across the flat part of the head, making sure to go through the front and back pieces of your doll.

Repeat those steps all the way back down the other side of the doll.

You should end with 18 stitches of white and back at the bottom left-hand corner of your doll.

Place 2SC in the top of the stitch in the corner. SC across 3 stitches (again going through the front and back pieces of your doll)

Grab your leg and sandwich it between the front and back pieces of your doll. Let it pop out the back slit between the 2 sides of the slip.

The toes of your leg should be pointing inwards.

Smush the leg opening closed and SC the leg into place with 6 stitches. You will be going through both pieces of the body and 2 stitches at a time for the leg. Just like the arms.

SC 5 going through the front and back pieces of the body. The first 2 will be on the same slip side that you just attached your leg on and the last 3 will be on the other half of the slip.

SC the second leg in the next 6 stitches. Making sure to point the toes inwards.

SC 3 then place 2 SC in the last stitch. Going through both the front and back pieces of your doll.

Join into the top of the first SC and tie off.

Sew in all your yarn tails but be careful not to accidentally sew through your buns.

Do not sew in the long white tail we left for seaming up the back.

Flip your doll right side out.

Stuff the head of your doll, then seam up the back slip with the long tail left at the base of the neck. Use a tapestry needle and the whip stitch to seam up the back.

Stuff your doll as you seam.

After your doll is completely stuffed and seamed, tie off and sew in your tail.

Embroider your face features with a tapestry needle. I show this step by step in the last few minutes of video 3. You’re welcome to try using safety eyes if you’d like or puff paint eyes following this tutorial.

Amigurumi Rag Doll Dress

This time we will be using our G (4.0mm) crochet hook.

Back Piece

Pull out and ball up a small portion of yarn and leave it as your starting tail. CH 13.

Row 1: Skip the chain closes to your hook and SC 12 in the back bumps. CH 1, turn. (12)

Row 2: INC, SC 10, INC. CH 1, turn (14)

Row 3: SC 14. CH 1, turn. (14)

Row 4: INC, SC 12, INC. CH 1, turn (16)

Row 5: SC 16. CH 1, turn (16)

Row 6: INC, SC 14, INC. tie off. (18)

Front Piece

Repeat rows 1-6 again, but this time do not tie off.

Row 7: SC 18.

Grab the first half of the dress and SC 18 across. Join both pieces of the dress together by joining into the top of the first SC of row 6. CH 2. DO NOT TURN. (36)

Switch to your H (5.0mm) hook for the skirt portion of the dress.

Row 8. DC INC in each stitch around. Join into the top of the first DC. CH 2. (72)

You will not turn your work after each for the skirt portion of the dress.

Row 9-18: DC in each stitch around. Join into the top of the first DC. CH 2. (72)

Tie off and sew in your tails.

Straps

Using your G hook again, put your hook into the first stitch in row 1 of the back piece of your dress and grab the yarn you left attached. Pull up a loop. CH 9.

Skip the first 4 chains and SC in the back bump of the last 5 chains.

SLST into the first stitch of row 1 (where your chain is coming out of)

SC 10 across the back side of the row 1 stitches.

CH 9. Skip the first 4 chains and SC in the back bump of the last 5 chains.

SLST into the last stitch from row 1. Tie off.

Shoes Make 2

Using your H 5.0mm hook

Round 1: SC 6 into a magic circle (6)

Round 2: INC in each stitch around (12)

Rounds 3: INC, SC* around 6 times (18)

Rounds 4-5: SC 18. (18)

Sew in your first tail.

Round 6: DEC 4 times, SC 10 (14)

Round 7: SC, DEC 2 times, SC 9 (12)

Round 8: SC 12

Round 9: SC 8. SLST. Tie off.

Bow

Using your H 5.0mm hook

CH 13.

Row 1: HDC 12 starting in the second chain from your hook. CH 1, turn. (12)

Rows 2-5: HDC 12 Back Loops Only. CH 1. Turn (12)

Tie off and sew in tails.

Cut a piece of bow color yarn about 3 feet long. 

Clinch the middle of your bow with your scrap yarn by tying a tight knot. Wrap your scrap yarn around the center of your bow about 6 times.

Add your headband to the back of your bow and continue wrapping yarn around the center of the bow and the headband about 6 more times.

Tie a knot and sew in your tails. 

I hope you guys love this amigurumi rag doll pattern! The color combinations are endless. I love watching each Gracie Doll come to life as she’s being made.

If you enjoyed making your Gracie Doll be sure to check out these patterns too!

Gracie Doll Bathing Suit
Grayson Doll
Ragdoll Unicorn

If you make one be sure to tag me @ACraftyConcept on social media! Id love to see your creation. You can also use the hashtag #GracieDoll if you’d like. As always you are more than welcome to sell your crochet toy dolls in your Etsy shops and at markets! I hope they are a hot item for you. Please credit me as the designer so other crocheters can make their own Graice Dolls.

If you haven’t already, be sure to sign up and grab this freebie below! Adding an adoption certificate to your amigurumi rag dolls will create a great experience for your customers, help you build your brand awareness, and keep them coming back to you time and time again!

That’s all I have for now friends. Happy Crocheting!

❤️ Ashley